When I took off on nearly vertical waves that no one else would touch, people assumed I had no fear. When they watched me suffer epic wipeouts then come up smiling, it was decided I had a screw loose. When I explored Childs Glacier, I got a bad rap as a crackpot and attention seeker. The truth is, I’m afraid of a lot of things. Horses. Skydiving. The thought of rappelling down the side of a mountain. I just feel more at home in the ocean than on land, living among the world’s big, barreling waves.